Japan Diary

At first this program was a nervous encounter, but within an hour we realized that this was going to be one of those life changing experiences. Despite the language barrier, we soon developed such a wonderful relationship with our guests Minoru (aka Gen) and Atuko Saito, that they referred to us as brother and sister. We laughed and enjoyed each other’s company far beyond the scope that was originally intended by the exchange program. When they left, they invited us to visit their home in Sendai, Japan the following year, whether or not the exchange could be arranged.

As it turned out the exchange could not be arranged for 2001, so Marie and I decided to visit Gen and Atuko anyway. We corresponded through very simple one- or two-sentence e-mails for a year. We kept the e-mails short because none of us spoke or wrote the other’s language and had to look up each word in our dictionaries.

About six months before our visit to Japan, Gen asked if I would be willing to lecture at the Thohoku Geijuthu Daigaku (Southeast Art College) in Sendai with which he was affiliated. I was flattered and willingly agreed, and sent my slides and documentation for the inter-preter to review.

About one month before the visit, we received an invitation from Mrs. Michiko Yanagi (the Japanese gallery owner who had helped facilitate the exchange). She offered to pick us up at the Narita airport and asked us to stay with her and her husband Kenji for a few days so that she could show us around Tokyo. Marie and I accepted the gracious offer.

We were met by Michiko at the Narita airport and proceeded by subway to Michiko’s home in a suburb of Tokyo called Saitama. I don’t know the population of Tokyo, but the city is 75 miles long and it took us two hours and several changes of trains to reach her town where her husband Kengi met us and drove us to their home. Along the way, Michiko apologized for having a much smaller home then we Americans are used to.

We anticipated a very tiny apartment, but we arrived at a very elegant home with a guest suite on the main floor and living quarters on the second. It was much more spacious then I anticipated and was decorated in elegant traditional Japanese decor with tatamie mats and futon beds on the floor and the sliding paper walls and extremely attractive woodwork and furniture. It looked like a model apartment from a decorating magazine. There was a 10' by 20' living area attached to the bedroom which was similarly decorated and included a beautiful rosewood table, eight chairs, and a wet bar. We were very pleasantly surprised. After dinner and spending some time becoming aquainted with our hosts, we retired.

The next day we were off to visit Tokyo. Michiko graciously guided us through a craft museum (the art museum was closed for renovation). Then we visited the Imperial Palace, home of the Emperor of Japan; it was built in 200 AD and has incredibly beautiful gardens and 60' stone walls surrounding the estate. Michiko asked if we thought that this would be of interest to the artists who will visit next year and I assured her that it would be. She will attempt to include it in the visit.

Next we walked through a portion of the famous Ginza. All I can say is that you have never experienced people until you have experienced the Ginza. I have never seen so many people (outside of Tokyo Station) in my life, and that includes Shanghai, China. Neither have I experienced such opulence. Try to envision a combination of Rodeo Drive, 52nd Street in New York, and Michigan Avenue in Chicago with wall-to-wall people. It was great.

Michiko took us to visit one of the venues where the exhibition which will take place with the Madison artists in 2002. It is a second-story gallery in the Ginza. The gallery usually rents for $800 per day for exhibits, but Michiko was able to obtain the gallery for the exhibit without charge due to the value of the cultural exchange and the generosity of the owner. Next we left for home to get ready for a party.

Michiko had arranged for a party in our honor and invited the artists who had attended the exchange in Madison. We were pleasantly surprised that 10 of the artists and their spouses were able to come, some from as far as four hours. It was a pot luck so we again experienced many new foods and drinks. We reviewed the album of pictures from the Madison visit that Pat Holt sent, and reminisced about the wonderful time we had had in Madison the previous October, and enjoyed a very delightful evening together.

The next morning Michiko and Kengi took us to the Shinshansen (bullet train) station and got us on our way to Sendai. The trip took two hours and was surprising quiet and smooth as well as fast. When we stepped off the train, Gen and Atuko were there to meet us. They ran to us and we exchanged tearful embraces. We had always been told that Japanese people never displayed emotion or affection in public. This certainly wasn’t our experience. It was one of those magic moments when you could not contain yourself. The anticipation of a year was culminated. We were with our Japanese brother and sister.

As we drove the 45 minutes to their home, we joked and reminisced and exclaimed how happy we were to be together again. Sendai was larger than I anticipated, over one million people in the metropolitan area. It was like a mini Tokyo, but much more manageable and enjoyable. Gen and Atuko’s home was larger then Michko’s but was similarly appointed with very elegant and tasteful understated traditional Japanese decor. Our guest suite again had the beautiful sliding paper and wood walls and an attached living area. Gen’s art work was everywhere. Gen and Atuko reviewed their “plan” of the week’s activities, and we were off the deliver the lecture at the art college.

The college is a private institution with 2,000 students very similar in the dress and appearance to US students. After a 45-minute session with my interpreter Mrs. Yamamoto (who spent two years at Yale University on an art scholarship), I gave the lecture on my sculpture to a class of 50-60 students. All went well, and after thanking Mrs. Yamamoto we were on our way to the Rinnoh temple which dates back to 1441. We enjoyed the beautiful gardens and grounds and were then on our way to shop for gro-ceries for the sukiyaki dinner planned for that evening.

Both the shopping in a Japanese grocery and the dinner were wonderful new experiences. We enjoyed a very leisurely evening joking, reminiscing, and stumbling through each other’s languages. It was amazing how well we were able to communicate. Hands and body language and facial expressions mean more to communication than we realize.

The next day we took a tour of Sendai city. Highlights included a tour of Aoba Court and Castle (home of the first Shogun of Sendai), dating back to 1600 AD. Then we visited a wonderful sculpture exhibit of Sato Churyo at the Miyagi museum of art and a calligraphy exhibit at Sendai Mediatheque. Afterwards we had lunch at a very famous Japanese restaurant which only serves beef tongue. Gen told the proprietor that I was a famous artist from America, so the staff was kowtowing to us and had me sign an autograph to be hung on the wall with all of the other famous people who ate at the restaurant. After lunch Gen had to go to his office for a few hours so Atuko showed us around the downtown area. We then went home for a great dinner of sukatori and various other new foods and lots of saki which was delivered in a very traditional and ritualistic way.

Gen’s best friend Kyuroku Saitou and his wife and daughter Makiko joined us for dinner. Kyuroku is an art director at a local college and is very creative and funny. He loves saki and we enjoyed enough of it. Makiko would be my interpreter at the Ogatsu Black Stone Conference the next day where I had been asked to be a guest speaker. Later in the evening we met Gen and Atuko’s daughter Chiharu and her husband Kenechiro. Chiharu teaches design at a local high school and Kenechiro is a fashion designer. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening of fun and conversation. Again, hands, body language and facial expression, and attitude were extremely important.

After breakfast the next morning, we were on our way for the two-hour drive north of Sendai to the little fishing village of Ogatsu (population 5,000). Ogatsu is a tourist location and is the place where the famous black slate stone is quarried which has supplied most Asian countries with the ink pots for brush painting for many hundreds of years. It is also the home of Gen’s studio and gallery. At this point I should indicate that Gen is short for Genshojitsu which means “black stone.” This is Minoru Saito’s alias. He adopted this name in reverance to the stone that provides his inspiration and living. Gen is a local celebrity because his art, which is made from the Ogatsu stone, and has made the village famous and has contributed very much to the economy. In fact, the Ogatsu Stone Museum houses much of Gen’s early art as well as some of his current work.

When we arrived at the gallery at 9:30am, Gen and Atuko had to prepare for the conference that was to begin at noon. Marie was enlisted to help make sandwiches with the two gallery attendants, Ukee and Tomo, and was given her own tray for “Marie’s American Sandwiches.” The menu included, among other things, grilled scallops (at least six inches in diameter!) and oysters. It was incredible.

While the others worked, I got out of the way and took a walk to the sea shore. While I watched some local fishermen, an old man who was introduced to me by Gen as Grandfather #1 (the gallery manager’s father) came over. He was carrying a net at the end of a long pole which he dipped into the ocean. Soon he pulled it out and withdrew one of two spiny sea urchins. I had no idea what he had in mind. He proceeded to get a rock and hit the urchin to break it in half. Then he dipped his finger into the pulsating insides of the creature and ate what appeared to be eggs or brains or I don’t know what. He then broke the other and indicated that I should eat. Several things crossed my mind at that moment.

One was how much I wished he had not done that. Another thought was how I brag about being able to eat anything and how this certainly was going to be the ultimate test. Another thought was that I would be offending this man if I didn’t at least try it. I dipped my fingers into it and placed the pulsating slimey goo flesh into my mouth. It was salty and not really that unpleasant except for the thought of it. I swallowed hastily and indicated placid approval. This pleased the old man, so he proceeded to dip out about eight more of the creatures. All I could think was “Oh shit.”

I took the urchins in a plastic bag that Grandfather #1 provided and indicated that I wanted my wife to share this rare experience. When I excitedly offered them to Marie, Atuko informed me that the urchins were not in season and were therefore illegal to eat. I indicated that Grandfather #1 made me do it. They said that Grandfather #1 was the boss in the village and immune from the law. We threw all but one urchin back into the ocean. One was saved for Marie who had the benefit of having it cooked before she ate it.

A little before noon a bus arrived with 40 people who were interested in the commercial utilization of Ogatsu black stone. Most were artists, scholars, architects and urban planners. Some were village officials and businessmen. We enjoyed the wonderful lunch, great wine and beer and then proceeded to tour the Ogatsu Stone Co. factory and yard and some local homes that are over 100 years old and made from the stone. Then we held the conference, which lasted about 3-1/2 hours. My involvement simply was to give my impressions of Gen’s work, his gallery, and the uses for Ogatsu stone. Makiko was at my side to interpret everything that I said and what others said. She did very well. The conference developed into a discussion of artistic philosophy as well as the use of stone. Everyone seemed very interested in what this foreigner had to say. At the conclusion of the conference I and the other panel members were presented with gifts for our involvement and then I was surrounded by people who wanted their picture taken with me as if I were a celebrity.

After a while, Gen told everyone to board the bus as we were going to a local hotel for dinner. At the hotel we removed our shoes as you do throughout Japan when you enter a building. We were led to a large room with two rows of tables which sit about a foot off the floor. The tables were elegantly set with eating utensils and loads of food, most of which I had never seen before, but which looked delicious. Much of it was local seafood and much of it was raw. Although I am not fond of raw seafood, I did try everything to experience it. After dinner everyone was required to stand up and give their thoughts about the conference. This took several hours and Makiko again did an excellent of translation. Afterwards it took another hour to say goodbye to everyone and exchange business cards. It was a very heady day.

On our way back to the gallery we stopped for ice cream which we took back to the gallery. After everyone took a shower, we sat down to talk about the day’s events and relax. While we were talking, a neighbor woman brought over some fresh mussels and sushimi and a rice dish. Atuko said that she does this very often. These people love Atuko and Gen. Marie and I took a romantic walk along the ocean before retiring at 10:00pm.

The city’s Big Ben chimes at 6:00am, so we were up. At breakfast I opened the gift that was given to me by the conference participants. It was an elaborately wrapped box containing five urushi lacquer bowls. Gen and Atuko were very excited because these are very special bowls by a very famous Sendai company.

During breakfast Grandfather #1 came over and informed us that there was a koto drum performance being held in town so we went racing over to see it. When we arrived, the performance was over so we went to the Ogatsu museum.

It was wonderful and contained thousands of black slate art objects from the famous Chinese ink pot to Gen’s work. It also contained many of examples of building materials that were made of Ogatsu stone. There were two stone carvers in the museum who demonstrated their work daily, to whom Gen introduced us.

Gen dropped Grandfather #1, Atuko, Marie and I off to look at some old stone buildings and an old temple. When we returned to the gallery, Gen was having tea with a young boy about eight years old. Gen introduced us to his “young friend” Umee as if the boy were a revered old friend. The boy’s father is a sailor on a commercial vessel and is away for long periods of time, so the boy has adopted Gen as a surrogate father. He comes to work on art projects every weekend when Gen and Atuko are in Ogatsu. Gen is very patient with him and generous with his time. Gen had Marie and I work on art projects with his guidance until noon and then we were given “free time” to do as we wished.

It was a hot, humid day, but Marie and I chose to walk the three miles into town anyway. Along the way we were greeted by many people who recognized us as friends of Gen and Atuko. The young man Umee had his mother stop so that they could say hello; one of the carvers from the museum stopped also. When we arrived in town we attended a tae-doe competion of local youngsters and then walked back to the gallery where we found Gen and Atuko having tea with Grandfather #2.

Grandfather #2 is about 80 years old and is a retired tuna fisherman of 38 years who lost his left hand while tuna fishing. He is filled with stories and was very excited to have an audience. I gave him some cancelled US stamps which I accumulate as gifts when on foreign trips and he was very appreciative. He excused himself and returned a few minutes later with two tuna hooks he had made. While admiring the hooks, I asked what the materials were. He explained that the streamers were made of cocks’ feathers and cat skin. Atuko cringed when she heard the cat skin part, because she has a very affectionate cat named Moomoo. We had a great time talking, and then I asked if it were possible to buy one of the hooks from him as a souvenir. Grandfather #2 said, “No, they are both gifts for you.” I protested, but he would not relent. He told Gen that I had a kind face and that it is good for us to love each other. I was almost brought to tears. Later Atuko and Gen told us that Grandfather #2 had cancer and only had a short time to live, and how much they appreciated our spending time with him. I was very moved.

At 4:15pm we loaded the car and headed back to Sendai. Chiharu wanted to buy dinner for us at a sushi restaurant. The restaurant was a charming, very old, family restaurant that looked like a sushi restaurant that you might see in a traditional Japanese movie. Chiharu is as outgoing and charming and devilish as her mother and father and we had a great time joking and talking. It was at this restaurant that we were exposed to a traditional Japanese dish called natto. It is some kind of vegetable and is the most godawful stuff that I ever ate! It was the only thing in Japan that I could not get down my throat. Gen, Atuko, and Chiharu anticipated our inability to stomach it and had a wonderful time kidding us about it. Chiharu left at 8:30pm because her husband is a typical Japanese man who must work late every night, and she wanted to be home to greet him and spend time with him.

The next day Marie and I were up at 6:00am to make breakfast for our hosts who were told to sleep late. Gen tried to foil us by requesting some traditional Japanese dishes for breakfast like Japanese pickles and miso soup. Marie and I went shopping the night before and surprised him with the things he requested as well as with a vegetable omelet, ham, and pancakes with Wisconsin maple syrup. Gen had to work at his office that morning so Atuko took Marie and I to see the “monster” (a 150' Bodhisattva which is constructed near their home). We took an elevator up to the top floor and walked down the spiral staircase visiting the 150 carved marble “gods” which are enshrined on every one of the 15 floors. Afterwards, we returned home to tea and moon cake, and a rest. When Gen came home we decided to visit some antique stores.

On the way we discovered just how very much alike my brother and I are. We both were born in April 1945, we both were married in October 1967; we both carve stone, drive crazily, take five-minute showers, like antique shops, have the same sense of humor, play the harmonica, and get bored at the same things, at the same time; we both think we are good singers, and both have some strange art work. Gen is a Samurai swordsman and I am a hunter. It is really incredible. We had dinner at home with two dear friends, Kayoko and Nobuo Ito. At first they appeared somewhat reserved, but then the saki flowed. At 9:30pm we decided to walk to a karaoke club two blocks away from Gen’s house. We had a ball. Gen is an incredible singer and a real actor/clown. At 11:30pm we staggered home, Gen doing his Charlie Chaplin routine the whole way. It had been a long time since I laughed that hard.

We slept a little later the next day. After breakfast we were on our way to experience a traditional pubic bath, but first we stopped at a quaint craft village with traditional Japanese craftspeople practicing and selling their crafts to the general public. It was raining very hard and Atuko informed us that a typhoon had started and was expected to peak the next day. We went to a very exclusive resort hotel to use their public bath. We entered a large room where many people were sitting around low tables drinking tea and eating cookies and cakes. Afterwards we rested awhile, and then went to the respective baths. This hotel has identical but separate (dammit!) facilities for men and women. First we went to a locker room to remove our clothes. Then we entered a huge room with a whirlpool that is approximately 75' on each side and is lined with showers about three feet apart along two of the walls. I took my cues from Gen and submerged into the whirlpool where we sat for about five minutes. Then we got up and walked to one of the showers and sat on a small stool in front of it. We lathered our bodies with soap and then rinsed off with the shower. Next we walked to the natural hot springs which are outside in an area that was landscaped incredibly and had two waterfalls coming down from rocks which climb up about 20 feet. We lay under the waterfalls for a few minutes then sat in the mineral pool for a while, then went back to the whirlpool before we dried ourselves. Afterwards we sat in a massage chair that is programmed to give you a massage from the top of your neck to the small of your back. It put us both to sleep. When we woke a few minutes later, we met the women and returned to the large room for more tea and snacks. Another nap, and we were on our way to visit the Sendai president’s second home. It was just like being on a movie set of a traditional Japanese movie. Home, dinner, bed.

September 12: I awoke at 6:00am and went to the computer to e-mail home. Then I learned of the terrorist attack in New York and Washington DC. I woke Gen and Atuko and turned on the television. We were all in shock. Atuko was translating the news reports as well as she could and I learned as much as possible from the AOL news report on the computer. After several hours, we decided to try to forget the catastrophy and to try and enjoy the day as planned.

We drove about 1-1/2 hours north to a golden temple which dates back to around 700 AD. Actually, there are many other temples besides the golden one. We did the regular tourist things and then went to a glassmaking factory, some antique stores, and then to a famous tea house that sits on a bluff overlooking a raging river canyon. It was very beautiful and we enjoyed it very much. When we returned home we asked a neighbor girl, Etuko, who studied one year at Indiana State University, to help us resolve an airline ticket problem. When we had left Madison, the flight was canceled because of mechanical problems and when the agent re-routed us, she inadvertently canceled our tickets from Tokyo to Hong Kong. It took over an hour of calls to get it straightened out.

That evening we had dinner at a great seafood restaurant in downtown Sendai. It was our last night before we left for 12 days with friends in China. The night life of Sendai is much like Tokyo: when the sun goes down, the lights come on, and everyone comes to town to recreate. We laughed and talked at dinner for three hours, but in the back of our minds we were sad that in a few short hours we would be leaving our dear friends. We expressed our feelings and appreciation and were kind of quiet on the way home.

September 13: The computer said that all air traffic was canceled. We called United Airlines in Tokyo and confirmed that United was grounded. We didn’t know if we should take a chance and take the train back to Tokyo to stay with Michiko as she had offered, or just wait in Sendai. Gen and Atuko were most gracious and offered their home for as long as we needed. In fact, Atuko said she was glad that we would have to stay longer, though she was sorry for the circumstances. We decided to unpack and stay.

Then, about an hour later, Atuko had an idea. She called United Airlines in Tokyo to ask if any other airline is flying and was told that yes, Japan Airlines was flying and United would be willing to give us a voucher to fly on Japan Airlines to Hong Kong. We rushed to get packed again and drove furiously to meet our reserved seats on the bullet train. We arrived early enough to spend some quality time over tea with our hosts who could not have been more gracious, loving, or giving.

When the time to leave came, Atuko hugged Marie lovingly and looked into her eyes and said, “Goodbye my big sister” (Marie is two months older). Marie and Atuko begin to cry. We all hugged, and then we couldn’t say anything as we boarded the train. Gen and I had tears in our eyes. Marie and Atuko were crying profusely. The train pulled away, and it took us several minutes to compose ourselves.

Those 11 days were among the most wonderful in our lives. My only regret is that I am not capable of expressing how close we have become with our wonderful loving brother and sister in Japan. We very much look forward to the exchange that will occur next October in Tokyo and Saitama, Japan. Marie and I are very grateful to the people who worked so hard to put the first part of the exchange together.

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